Ice Dam Repair in Frog Hollow from $150. If the ceiling stains during a thaw rather than during rain, this is almost certainly what you have. Free inspection and a written quote.
Close to open water the freeze is less reliable and the thaw more frequent, which produces repeated small melt-and-refreeze cycles rather than one big dam. That is harder on a roof, not easier: every cycle works at the same lap, and the leak arrives in mild weather several times a winter.
An ice dam is a heat problem wearing a roofing costume. Warm air escaping into the roof space melts the snow lying on the upper roof. That meltwater runs down to the eaves, which are cold because nothing heated sits under them, and refreezes there. Repeat for a week and you have a ridge of ice holding water behind it.



The roofing element prices like any other repair, $350 to $1,800. But be clear about what you are buying: an ice dam is caused by heat escaping into the roof space, and the repair that ends it is air sealing, insulation and ventilation. That is not roofing, we do not pretend it is, and no published New Jersey figure for it exists to quote you honestly. Exposure costs money in specification rather than area here. Perimeter fixing on a low-slope roof and fastener choice on any flashing both step up this close to open water, and a quote identical to one three miles inland has not accounted for where the building is.
The roof side: an ice barrier membrane at the eaves where the covering is coming off anyway, the damaged courses, and the flashing or valley the water has been getting past.
Insulation and air sealing work in the roof space, which is the part that actually stops the melting. We will tell you what needs doing and that it is somebody else's trade rather than inventing a number.
One winter, usually. That is a legitimate thing to buy if you are selling or if money is tight this year, and it should be sold as what it is rather than as a fix.
Low ground and open water do two things to a roof here. Damp that looks like a leak is sometimes rising or tracking from below, and establishing the direction of travel is the first job rather than an afterthought. And wind arrives off the water with nothing in the way, which finds the edge detail -- rake, drip edge, the first course -- before it finds anything else.
Including us. On repair work the checks are different from the ones people apply to a replacement, and cheaper to make.
The single most useful question on this page. A repair quoted from the roof alone is a repair quoted without knowing where the water traveled, and that is how a patch ends up in the wrong place. It costs nothing to ask and it separates most quotes immediately.
'Repair roof' is not a scope. 'Rebuild step flashing to the chimney, replace two vent boots, re-lap the valley' is -- and it can be checked when it is finished, which is the point.
Ask before, not after. A repair aimed at a named cause can be stood behind; a patch aimed at a stain cannot, and a contractor who is vague about the cause will be vague about this too.
The first question here is which direction the water is coming from.
Before anything else, establish whether this is a roof leak at all.
Wind uplift rather than ponding is the flat-roof risk this close to open water.
Wind off the water breaks seal lines, and a broken seal line is the most deceptive damage in roofing: the tab drops back flat and looks untouched, then leaks in the first driving rain, sometimes months later.
Salt-laden air off the water is hard on metal, so flashing here has a shorter life than the same detail three miles inland.
Tell us what the wind is doing.
Pre-war chimneys, and eaves with no ice barrier.
Flat roofs behind parapets. Access is the first problem.
Post-war and often overlaid, so the eaves are buried.
Steep pitch. Specific details fail, not the field.
Rear additions and garages, and their junctions.
Built as a set, so the street is a reliable guide.
The widest age spread. Age decides where to look.
The questions that decide this job, answered up front.
We can clear it, and sometimes that is the right emergency step. But it will be back within the week, because the cause is heat escaping into the roof space and nothing about clearing ice changes that. Steam removal and chipping both risk the covering, and chipping frequently does real damage.
They can keep a channel open and stop water pooling behind a dam, which is a legitimate holding measure on a roof that cannot be improved this year. They do not stop the melting, they cost money to run every winter, and anybody selling them as the solution is selling a symptom.
That is an ice dam, and it is the opposite of a rain leak. Heat escaping into the roof space melts snow on the upper roof; the meltwater refreezes at the cold eaves and dams; water then backs up behind it and goes in above the line the covering sheds from. It shows up during a thaw. The lasting fix is insulation and ventilation, not shingles.
Usually not. New Jersey treats repair or replacement of an existing roof covering on a DETACHED one- or two-family dwelling as ordinary maintenance under N.J.A.C. 5:23-2.7 -- no permit, no notice, no inspection. Attached houses, buildings with three or more units and anything structural are the exceptions, and we tell you which you are at the survey.
Look away from the failure. If the covering across the rest of the slope still lies flat, still holds its granules and is not brittle, the roof has life in it and the repair is the right job. If the slope is generally spent, a repair is money spent twice. Then check the layer count: two coverings is the practical ceiling.
The roof space walked as well as the roof, before any price. The cause named in writing, not just the work.