Chimney Flashing Repair in Frog Hollow from $300. $300 to $1,200 around a chimney, vent or skylight -- and the commonest leak on this housing stock. Free inspection and a written quote.
Salt-laden air off the water is hard on metal, so flashing here has a shorter life than the same detail three miles inland. It also means fastener choice matters: dissimilar metals in a damp salty atmosphere corrode faster than either would alone.
Standard roof flashing repairs run $300 to $900 in New Jersey, and flashing around a chimney, vent or skylight is $300 to $1,200. On pre-war housing with masonry chimneys this is the single most common leak there is, because a chimney is a structure moving independently of the roof it passes through.



Standard roof flashing repairs are $300 to $900 in New Jersey; flashing around a chimney, vent or skylight runs $300 to $1,200. On pre-war housing with masonry stacks this is the most common leak there is, because a chimney moves independently of the roof it passes through. Exposure costs money in specification rather than area here. Perimeter fixing on a low-slope roof and fastener choice on any flashing both step up this close to open water, and a quote identical to one three miles inland has not accounted for where the building is.
Sealant over a failed flashing is a lid on the problem. It looks like work, costs less and lasts a season. Rebuilding the step and counter-flashing costs more and ends it.
A stack in a valley or at a junction between two roofs. A back gutter that was never installed. And masonry that has to be made good before metal can be let into it.
A cracked crown, a failed liner or open pointing are masonry. If that is what is letting water in we will tell you, because flashing over failing masonry is work that looks like a repair and is not one.
Low ground and open water do two things to a roof here. Damp that looks like a leak is sometimes rising or tracking from below, and establishing the direction of travel is the first job rather than an afterthought. And wind arrives off the water with nothing in the way, which finds the edge detail -- rake, drip edge, the first course -- before it finds anything else.
Including us. On repair work the checks are different from the ones people apply to a replacement, and cheaper to make.
The single most useful question on this page. A repair quoted from the roof alone is a repair quoted without knowing where the water traveled, and that is how a patch ends up in the wrong place. It costs nothing to ask and it separates most quotes immediately.
'Repair roof' is not a scope. 'Rebuild step flashing to the chimney, replace two vent boots, re-lap the valley' is -- and it can be checked when it is finished, which is the point.
Ask before, not after. A repair aimed at a named cause can be stood behind; a patch aimed at a stain cannot, and a contractor who is vague about the cause will be vague about this too.
The first question here is which direction the water is coming from.
Close to open water the freeze is less reliable and the thaw more frequent, which produces repeated small melt-and-refreeze cycles rather than one big dam.
Before anything else, establish whether this is a roof leak at all.
Wind uplift rather than ponding is the flat-roof risk this close to open water.
Wind off the water breaks seal lines, and a broken seal line is the most deceptive damage in roofing: the tab drops back flat and looks untouched, then leaks in the first driving rain, sometimes months later.
Tell us what the wind is doing.
Pre-war chimneys, and eaves with no ice barrier.
Flat roofs behind parapets. Access is the first problem.
Post-war and often overlaid, so the eaves are buried.
Steep pitch. Specific details fail, not the field.
Rear additions and garages, and their junctions.
Built as a set, so the street is a reliable guide.
The widest age spread. Age decides where to look.
The questions that decide this job, answered up front.
Because sealant is not a flashing. A chimney moves independently of the roof it passes through, so anything relying on adhesion across that joint fails within a season or two. The repair that lasts rebuilds the step flashing and lets counter-flashing into the masonry joint.
From where the damp is and what the masonry looks like. A cracked crown, open pointing or a failed liner put water inside the stack and it shows up lower down, often in a different pattern from a flashing leak. We will tell you which one you have, and masonry is not our trade.
That is an ice dam, and it is the opposite of a rain leak. Heat escaping into the roof space melts snow on the upper roof; the meltwater refreezes at the cold eaves and dams; water then backs up behind it and goes in above the line the covering sheds from. It shows up during a thaw. The lasting fix is insulation and ventilation, not shingles.
Usually not. New Jersey treats repair or replacement of an existing roof covering on a DETACHED one- or two-family dwelling as ordinary maintenance under N.J.A.C. 5:23-2.7 -- no permit, no notice, no inspection. Attached houses, buildings with three or more units and anything structural are the exceptions, and we tell you which you are at the survey.
Look away from the failure. If the covering across the rest of the slope still lies flat, still holds its granules and is not brittle, the roof has life in it and the repair is the right job. If the slope is generally spent, a repair is money spent twice. Then check the layer count: two coverings is the practical ceiling.
The roof space walked as well as the roof, before any price. The cause named in writing, not just the work.