Flat Roof Repair in Frog Hollow from $150. On low slope the membrane is rarely what failed. The drainage is. Free inspection and a written quote.
Wind uplift rather than ponding is the flat-roof risk this close to open water. A membrane held down only at its perimeter will eventually be tested by a gust off the Kill, and the failure appears at an edge. Perimeter fixing is the thing to look at first here.
There is a great deal of low slope on this housing -- rear extensions, porch roofs, whole roofs on older attached stock -- and what fails is almost never the middle of the field. It is the outlet, the parapet, the coping or the upstand at a wall.



Low-slope repairs sit in the same $350 to $1,800 band for most jobs, and small work starts around $150. What decides whether that money lasts is the drainage: in a freezing winter, water that cannot leave freezes in a lap and lifts it, then thaws and runs in through the gap it made. Exposure costs money in specification rather than area here. Perimeter fixing on a low-slope roof and fastener choice on any flashing both step up this close to open water, and a quote identical to one three miles inland has not accounted for where the building is.
Water still standing 48 hours after rain means the fall is wrong or the outlet is blocked. We measure depth at the low points before quoting and again after, so you can see whether it moved.
The outlet, the parapet, the coping and the upstand at a wall. The middle of the membrane is usually the last thing wrong with a flat roof, and a quote that only mentions the field has not walked it.
If the fall was set wrong when it was built, patching is an annual appointment. We will say when local correction is possible and when it honestly is not.
Low ground and open water do two things to a roof here. Damp that looks like a leak is sometimes rising or tracking from below, and establishing the direction of travel is the first job rather than an afterthought. And wind arrives off the water with nothing in the way, which finds the edge detail -- rake, drip edge, the first course -- before it finds anything else.
Including us. On repair work the checks are different from the ones people apply to a replacement, and cheaper to make.
The single most useful question on this page. A repair quoted from the roof alone is a repair quoted without knowing where the water traveled, and that is how a patch ends up in the wrong place. It costs nothing to ask and it separates most quotes immediately.
'Repair roof' is not a scope. 'Rebuild step flashing to the chimney, replace two vent boots, re-lap the valley' is -- and it can be checked when it is finished, which is the point.
Ask before, not after. A repair aimed at a named cause can be stood behind; a patch aimed at a stain cannot, and a contractor who is vague about the cause will be vague about this too.
The first question here is which direction the water is coming from.
Close to open water the freeze is less reliable and the thaw more frequent, which produces repeated small melt-and-refreeze cycles rather than one big dam.
Before anything else, establish whether this is a roof leak at all.
Wind off the water breaks seal lines, and a broken seal line is the most deceptive damage in roofing: the tab drops back flat and looks untouched, then leaks in the first driving rain, sometimes months later.
Salt-laden air off the water is hard on metal, so flashing here has a shorter life than the same detail three miles inland.
Tell us what the wind is doing.
Pre-war chimneys, and eaves with no ice barrier.
Flat roofs behind parapets. Access is the first problem.
Post-war and often overlaid, so the eaves are buried.
Steep pitch. Specific details fail, not the field.
Rear additions and garages, and their junctions.
Built as a set, so the street is a reliable guide.
The widest age spread. Age decides where to look.
The questions that decide this job, answered up front.
More urgent than in a warm climate. Water still sitting 48 hours after rain means the fall is wrong or the outlet is blocked, and in a freezing winter that water expands inside laps and under flashings and lifts them mechanically. Then it thaws and runs in through the gap it just made.
If the substrate is sound and dry, a coating is a reasonable holding measure and we will say so. If it is not sound, a coating seals moisture in and buys about a year. We establish which you have before quoting either, and we will tell you when the cheaper option is genuinely the correct one.
That is an ice dam, and it is the opposite of a rain leak. Heat escaping into the roof space melts snow on the upper roof; the meltwater refreezes at the cold eaves and dams; water then backs up behind it and goes in above the line the covering sheds from. It shows up during a thaw. The lasting fix is insulation and ventilation, not shingles.
Usually not. New Jersey treats repair or replacement of an existing roof covering on a DETACHED one- or two-family dwelling as ordinary maintenance under N.J.A.C. 5:23-2.7 -- no permit, no notice, no inspection. Attached houses, buildings with three or more units and anything structural are the exceptions, and we tell you which you are at the survey.
Look away from the failure. If the covering across the rest of the slope still lies flat, still holds its granules and is not brittle, the roof has life in it and the repair is the right job. If the slope is generally spent, a repair is money spent twice. Then check the layer count: two coverings is the practical ceiling.
The roof space walked as well as the roof, before any price. The cause named in writing, not just the work.