Flat Roof Repair in Union from $150. On low slope the membrane is rarely what failed. The drainage is. Free inspection and a written quote.
The flat roof in Union is typically over an attached garage, and it has a particular problem: nobody goes in there in winter, so a leak runs for weeks before it is noticed. By then the deck has usually taken more water than the repair suggests, which is why we check the boards rather than just the surface.
There is a great deal of low slope on this housing -- rear extensions, porch roofs, whole roofs on older attached stock -- and what fails is almost never the middle of the field. It is the outlet, the parapet, the coping or the upstand at a wall.



Low-slope repairs sit in the same $350 to $1,800 band for most jobs, and small work starts around $150. What decides whether that money lasts is the drainage: in a freezing winter, water that cannot leave freezes in a lap and lifts it, then thaws and runs in through the gap it made. The variable here is which roof. A repair to the house is priced normally; a repair to an attached garage or a rear addition often turns out to involve the deck as well, because nobody goes in there in winter and a leak runs unnoticed for weeks.
Water still standing 48 hours after rain means the fall is wrong or the outlet is blocked. We measure depth at the low points before quoting and again after, so you can see whether it moved.
The outlet, the parapet, the coping and the upstand at a wall. The middle of the membrane is usually the last thing wrong with a flat roof, and a quote that only mentions the field has not walked it.
If the fall was set wrong when it was built, patching is an annual appointment. We will say when local correction is possible and when it honestly is not.
Rear additions and attached garages are the recurring problem here, because the junction where an addition roof meets the original one is where water gets in. A garage roof is also the least-inspected roof on any property: it is usually the oldest covering on the plot and nobody notices until something stored under it is ruined.
Including us. On repair work the checks are different from the ones people apply to a replacement, and cheaper to make.
The single most useful question on this page. A repair quoted from the roof alone is a repair quoted without knowing where the water traveled, and that is how a patch ends up in the wrong place. It costs nothing to ask and it separates most quotes immediately.
'Repair roof' is not a scope. 'Rebuild step flashing to the chimney, replace two vent boots, re-lap the valley' is -- and it can be checked when it is finished, which is the point.
Ask before, not after. A repair aimed at a named cause can be stood behind; a patch aimed at a stain cannot, and a contractor who is vague about the cause will be vague about this too.
Two roofs per property is normal here and the second one is the problem.
The classic Union ice dam is over an attached garage or a rear addition, because those roofs sit next to heated space on one side and unheated space below.
The junction between an addition and the original house is where most Union leaks start.
The shaded northern slope is the one to look at first on these plots, because mature planting around suburban houses keeps it damp for longer after every thaw.
Where a chimney sits at the junction of the house and an addition, there are two roofs and a masonry stack all meeting in one place.
If the water is coming into a garage or an addition rather than the house, say so -- it changes the urgency and what we bring.
Pre-war chimneys, and eaves with no ice barrier.
Flat roofs behind parapets. Access is the first problem.
Low ground, open water. Which way is the water going?
Post-war and often overlaid, so the eaves are buried.
Steep pitch. Specific details fail, not the field.
Built as a set, so the street is a reliable guide.
The widest age spread. Age decides where to look.
The questions that decide this job, answered up front.
More urgent than in a warm climate. Water still sitting 48 hours after rain means the fall is wrong or the outlet is blocked, and in a freezing winter that water expands inside laps and under flashings and lifts them mechanically. Then it thaws and runs in through the gap it just made.
If the substrate is sound and dry, a coating is a reasonable holding measure and we will say so. If it is not sound, a coating seals moisture in and buys about a year. We establish which you have before quoting either, and we will tell you when the cheaper option is genuinely the correct one.
Look away from the failure. If the covering across the rest of the slope still lies flat, still holds its granules and is not brittle, the roof has life in it and the repair is the right job. If the slope is generally spent, a repair is money spent twice. Then check the layer count: two coverings is the practical ceiling.
Ask for the New Jersey HIC registration number and check it on the public register. Then ask whether they will look in the roof space, and whether the quote will name the cause rather than just the work. Those three questions cost nothing and they separate most of a shortlist immediately.
Most New Jersey roof repairs run $350 to $1,800, with minor work from $150 to $600. A leak is usually $400 to $1,400 and a small isolated one $400 to $900. Flashing is $300 to $900, or $300 to $1,200 around a chimney, vent or skylight. New Jersey runs above the national average on labor, which is why online calculators read low.
The roof space walked as well as the roof, before any price. The cause named in writing, not just the work.