Emergency Roof Repair in Union from $150. Made safe tonight, priced properly when it is dry. Two jobs, two figures. Free inspection and a written quote.
If the water is coming into a garage or an addition rather than the house, say so -- it changes the urgency and what we bring. It also changes the likely cause, because those roofs are older and flatter than the one over the house and they fail differently.
An emergency call is about containment, not repair. The aim is a cover that holds until the roof can be seen in daylight on a dry day, and it is quoted as its own item -- because anybody putting a firm price on a permanent repair in the dark in a storm is pricing what they cannot see.



The repair itself is priced like any other, $350 to $1,800 for most jobs. Containment -- making it safe tonight -- is a separate item, and out-of-hours attendance is quoted before we set off rather than added afterwards. We do not publish a percentage because no New Jersey figure for one exists that we would stand behind. The variable here is which roof. A repair to the house is priced normally; a repair to an attached garage or a rear addition often turns out to involve the deck as well, because nobody goes in there in winter and a leak runs unnoticed for weeks.
Making it safe tonight and repairing it properly are separate pieces of work on separate visits. A firm price for the second one, given in the dark in the wet, is a price for something nobody has seen.
If the water started during a thaw rather than during rain, it is meltwater backing up behind ice and it will stop when the melt does. The useful work that night is containment inside and a diagnosis afterwards.
Daylight and wind, in that order. We will tell you honestly when nobody should be on a roof, because the alternative is a cover that blows off and a second emergency.
Rear additions and attached garages are the recurring problem here, because the junction where an addition roof meets the original one is where water gets in. A garage roof is also the least-inspected roof on any property: it is usually the oldest covering on the plot and nobody notices until something stored under it is ruined.
Including us. On repair work the checks are different from the ones people apply to a replacement, and cheaper to make.
New Jersey registers home improvement contractors rather than licensing roofers, and the number belongs on every advert and contract. The register is public. The wording is a tell as well: the code says not to call it a license, so a New Jersey roofer advertising their roofing 'license' has not read the rules closely.
'Repair roof' is not a scope. 'Rebuild step flashing to the chimney, replace two vent boots, re-lap the valley' is -- and it can be checked when it is finished, which is the point.
Ask before, not after. A repair aimed at a named cause can be stood behind; a patch aimed at a stain cannot, and a contractor who is vague about the cause will be vague about this too.
Two roofs per property is normal here and the second one is the problem.
The classic Union ice dam is over an attached garage or a rear addition, because those roofs sit next to heated space on one side and unheated space below.
The junction between an addition and the original house is where most Union leaks start.
The flat roof in Union is typically over an attached garage, and it has a particular problem: nobody goes in there in winter, so a leak runs for weeks before it is noticed.
The shaded northern slope is the one to look at first on these plots, because mature planting around suburban houses keeps it damp for longer after every thaw.
Where a chimney sits at the junction of the house and an addition, there are two roofs and a masonry stack all meeting in one place.
Pre-war chimneys, and eaves with no ice barrier.
Flat roofs behind parapets. Access is the first problem.
Low ground, open water. Which way is the water going?
Post-war and often overlaid, so the eaves are buried.
Steep pitch. Specific details fail, not the field.
Built as a set, so the street is a reliable guide.
The widest age spread. Age decides where to look.
The questions that decide this job, answered up front.
Usually, where there is daylight left and the wind allows. What we will not do is pretend a permanent repair can be specified in the dark in the wet. We contain it, photograph what we find, and price the real work when the roof is dry.
If water is near a light fitting or a socket, switch that circuit off at the board first. Then clear what you can from underneath and get a container under the drip. A ceiling holding water should be relieved deliberately at its lowest point over a bucket rather than left to come down. And note whether it is raining -- if it is not, say so, because that changes everything.
Look away from the failure. If the covering across the rest of the slope still lies flat, still holds its granules and is not brittle, the roof has life in it and the repair is the right job. If the slope is generally spent, a repair is money spent twice. Then check the layer count: two coverings is the practical ceiling.
Ask for the New Jersey HIC registration number and check it on the public register. Then ask whether they will look in the roof space, and whether the quote will name the cause rather than just the work. Those three questions cost nothing and they separate most of a shortlist immediately.
Most New Jersey roof repairs run $350 to $1,800, with minor work from $150 to $600. A leak is usually $400 to $1,400 and a small isolated one $400 to $900. Flashing is $300 to $900, or $300 to $1,200 around a chimney, vent or skylight. New Jersey runs above the national average on labor, which is why online calculators read low.
The roof space walked as well as the roof, before any price. The cause named in writing, not just the work.